Calontir Trim Double Knot Calontir Tracery Blackwork

Welcome to the brand new armor section!

We sell fine metal lamellar plates in both copper and stainless steel.

Currently, armor and trim orders must be kept seperate. Email me, Steve Boyd at to order.

Some assembly required.


Lacing Lamellar
Return to main Lamellar Page here.

The plates that I supply have been mechanically punched and deburred and polished by tumbling, but the quality of the deburring varies between the various production runs that I get. You may wish to further bevel each of the lacing holes yourself.

I suggest using 550 cord for lacing. Almost anything else will abrade through the constant motion between the plates.

The plates have 12 holes. In the following notation, the holes are lettered from top to bottom, proceeding clockwise from the curved end. Therefore A is the uppermost hole, B immediately below it. C and D, and E and F are paired along the right side, G is the right hole on the bottom, H is the left. I and J, and K and L are the side holes on the left side. You will do most of the lacing with the plates “wrong side” up. A capital letter in the stitching notation indicates back to front lacing through that hole, while a lower case letter indicates lacing from front to back (up towards you). The number following the letter indicates which plate number the hole belongs to. The number preceding a letter indicates which row it belongs to.

Assembling Rows:
The first step is to assemble horizontal rows. Determine the length that you need and count out the number of plates you need. Each plate adds 13/16 inch to your length.

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Use two cords to assemble your rows. Start with a secure knot, with a foot trailing after it (in case you need to add more plates). Lace down through C1, L2 and then up through k2 and d1. Cross over to C2, L3 and back through k3 and d2. At this point I tie a knot between the loose end and the cord that went into C2. Increasing the frequency of the knots will make your armor a bit stiffer, but will also likely cause the cords to abrade more quickly. I use a knot every other plate. You may choose other frequencies.
After the knot, lace C3, L4, k4, d3; C4,L5,k5,d4, knot. Continue this pattern until you reach the end of your plates for this row. By this notation, you are lacing left to right, and adding a plate on to the bottom each time.
Now lace the second set of holes, with the second cord. Starting with a knot and a tail, lace E1,J2,i2,f1,E2,J3,i3,f2, knot and so on until you reach the end of your row.
Lace together the remainder of your horizontal rows, both long (belly) and short (chest and upper spine.

Attaching Rows:
Assuming you want the curved end up on the outside, proceed as follows:
Again working from the back, align the rows of plates with the lowest row (Row 1) beneath the second row (Row 2).
Start without a knot in the cord here, as you will tie a knot after the first how is laced.
However, still leave 6 to 8 inches on the cord, in case you need to add more plates.
Lace 2H1, 1A1,1b1,2g1. Tie a knot. Carry over to 2H2, 1A2, 1b2, 2g2; 2H3,1A3,1b3,2g3. Tie a knot. Continue this pattern until you reach the end of your rows.

When joining the chest and spine rows onto the main rows, realize that the corner knots at the bottom of the chest and upper spine rows are effectively going to bear the weight of all of the added plates that go around the side. Some people have riveted this corner joint, others have used a leather piece shaped like an L to help spread out this weight.

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